AUGUST BARRON SS27 巴黎
项目信息
项目品牌: AUGUST BARRON
项目行业: 服装及鞋履
项目日期:
2026-09-30 10:00
2026-09-30 22:00
项目地点: 巴黎
项目名称: AUGUST BARRON 2027 春夏系列「Walk of Fame」发布
AUGUST BARRON|AUGUST BARRON 2027 春夏系列「Walk of Fame」发布(巴黎时装周)|2026-09-30|巴黎
拉西加尔是皮加勒区的一座老歌舞厅,十九世纪末开业,观众席阶梯式排列,两侧有包厢,舞台上方是一圈雕花的拱。
August Barron 把秀放在这里,主题叫「Walk of Fame」——好莱坞星光大道。但没有铺星形地砖,也没有棕榈树。台上只有镜子。
舞台正面被一排镜面板封住,板与板之间留缝,烟雾从缝里出来。镜子把观众席、吊灯和模特一起折进去,画面里因此多出一层人。
吊灯是老的,水晶,垂在舞台中央偏后;另一颗迪斯科球挂在观众席上方,转动时把光点撒到包厢的雕花上。剧院原本的红色座椅没有换,观众就坐在里面,前排几乎贴着模特走过,看得见面料的织纹。
走秀动线穿过观众席。模特从侧门进来,沿台阶走下,从两排人之间穿过,再上舞台;返程走另一条。观众必须转头,不能只往前看。
衣服是这一季的重点:宽肩长外套、拖到脚踝的衬衫、丝绸长裙、亮片针织,颜色是奶油、象牙、烟灰与黑。廓形松,垂坠被推到很前。外套的袖窿放得很低,抬手时整件衣服跟着动,不是贴着肩膀走。
有几套是全白的:长衬衫配阔腿裤,或一件系带风衣,面料薄到能透出后面的灯。走动时衣料贴在身体上,停下时又散开。
造型上刻意保留「没穿好」的状态:领口斜着,袖子长过手,腰带不系紧,鞋是尖头平底。这种松垮是设计出来的,需要反复试。
传播上,这场秀靠的是场所的气味:老剧院、镜子、烟雾、水晶灯,这些元素不需要解释就能被认出「巴黎」。品牌没有做装置,做的是选对一间房。
对案例库来说,它值得记的是「以场地代替布景」的另一种做法:不遮住场地,反而把场地的装饰放大成画面主体,让衣服在其中显得轻。
AUGUST BARRON Spring/Summer 2027 "Walk of Fame" 30 September 2026 — Paris Fashion Week Venue: La Cigale, Pigalle, Paris Agency: LamodeenImages
La Cigale opened in Pigalle at the end of the nineteenth century as a music hall. The seating is steeply raked, boxes run up both sides, and a carved arch frames the stage.
August Barron staged its Spring/Summer 2027 show there under the title "Walk of Fame" — Hollywood Boulevard. There were no terrazzo stars on the floor and no palms. What the stage had instead was mirror.
The proscenium was sealed behind a row of mirrored panels with gaps between them, and smoke came out of the gaps. The mirrors folded the audience, the chandelier and the models into the same picture, so most photographs contain a second layer of people.
Building it was mostly rigging. The mirror wall had to sit inside the proscenium without touching the arch, the ball needed a clear drop above the stalls, and the smoke had to stay low enough not to hide the first rows.
The chandelier is original, crystal, hung slightly behind centre stage. A disco ball was rigged above the auditorium, and as it turned it scattered points of light across the plasterwork of the boxes. The house seating was left as it is.
The route ran through the seating. Models entered from a side door, came down the steps, passed between two rows of guests and climbed to the stage; the return took another way. The audience had to turn their heads. Looking straight ahead was not enough, and the clothes were seen from the side as often as from the front.
Clothes carried the collection: wide-shouldered long coats, shirts to the ankle, silk dresses, sequinned knits, in cream, ivory, smoke and black. The silhouette is loose and the drape is pushed forward.
Several looks were all white — a long shirt with a wide trouser, or a belted trench in a fabric thin enough to let the light behind it through. The cloth clings while the model walks and releases when she stops. Against the mirrors, white is the only colour that reads as a silhouette rather than a reflection.
The styling keeps a deliberate state of not-quite-dressed: a collar sitting off-centre, sleeves past the hand, a belt left unfastened, pointed flats. That slackness is designed, and it takes fittings to hold.
As communication, the show relies on the smell of the place. An old theatre, mirrors, smoke and a crystal chandelier are read as Paris without a caption. No installation was built; a room was chosen correctly. The references behind the collection were Californian rather than Parisian, which is why the mirror did more work than any prop: it makes the room read as a place where films are shown.
For a case library it is a second way of letting a venue replace a set: instead of covering the building, the production enlarged its ornament until the ornament became the image, and the clothes were made to look light against it.
What it also demonstrates is economy. The most expensive-looking element in the room was already there, and the new spend went into mirror, smoke and timing rather than into construction. Because the set was the building, most seats had the same backdrop, and few guests had a poor view.
Source: public information published by lamodeenimages.
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