Christian Dior Resort 2020 collection SHOW

Marrakech 

 29th April，2019

克里斯蒂娜迪奥 2020 早春度假系列秀场

马拉喀什

2019年04月29日

马拉喀什在哪里？

马拉喀什，在北非在摩洛哥

Palais El Badi 是什么？ 

Palais El Badi 就是摩洛哥的巴迪皇宫遗址

El Badi Palace是一座位于摩洛哥马拉喀什的废墟宫殿。

它是由萨达王朝的苏丹艾哈迈德·曼苏尔（Ahmad al-Mansur）在1578年加入之后不久委托建造的。

宫殿的建筑由三位国王之战后葡萄牙人支付的巨额赎金资助。它目前是一个受欢迎的旅游景点。  

VOGUE说

有着“南方珍珠”之称的“神域”马拉喀什，因Christian Dior 2020早春度假系列大秀的举办在绵绵细雨中愈发闪亮。

创意总监 Maria Grazia Chiuri的一系列关于奢侈、全球化和文化的作品在16世纪灯火辉煌的皇宫内相继面世，勾勒出一幅幅精美的T台画卷。

此次经典茹伊印花面料由非洲的传统蜡染技术打造，现代与古典的对话，打破了时空的局限，使这座历史宫殿再次绽放出昔日的光彩。

到底Maria Grazia Chiuri想传达什么？

！往下看！

以下内容来自5 Things To Know About Dior's Cruise Collection，from VOGUE.CO.UK，by ANDERS CHRISTIAN MADSEN

以下中文信息来自GOOGLE翻译的支持

by GETTY IMAGES

After a two-day adventure around the palaces of Marrakech, on Monday evening Maria Grazia Chiuri invited guests to the Palais El Badi for her Dior Cruise 2020 show. Surrounded by the terracotta colonnades of the 16th century fortress, models stalked the courtyard’s epic pool, set alight with hundreds of torches glistening above the surface, giant bonfires cutting through the Moroccan night. This was a collection close to the heart of Chiuri: a cultural exchange between the codes of Dior and the pan-African craftsmanship she has always admired. Working with traditional wax print fabric manufactured in the Ivory Coast, she fused the trademarks of Dior - toile de jouy, tarot card motifs and the New Look silhouette - with a fabric whose history is as cross-cultural as her clientele. “The real thing for me wasn’t just to speak about craftsmanship from around the world, but to go around the world and see the codes of Dior from different points of view,” Chiuri said, noting how wax fabric originated in Europe, then travelled to Asia and eventually found a home on the African continent. 

在马拉喀什宫殿进行为期两天的冒险之后，周一晚上，Maria Grazia Chiuri邀请客人前往Palais El Badi参加她的Dior Cruise 2020秀。被16世纪堡垒的兵马俑柱廊所环绕，模特们走进庭院的史诗般的游泳池，在表面上闪闪发光的数百个火把点燃，摩洛哥之夜的巨型篝火。这是一个靠近Chiuri中心的集合：Dior代码与她一直钦佩的泛非工艺之间的文化交流。她使用象牙海岸制造的传统蜡印花布，将Dior - toile de jouy，塔罗牌图案和New Look剪影的商标融合在一起，其面料与她的客户一样具有跨文化的历史。 

by GETTY IMAGES  

In educating herself on the wax fabrics of the African continent, Maria Grazia Chiuri joined forces with the French anthropologist Anne Grosfilley, who served as a guide throughout the creation of the collection. Grosfilley introduced Chiuri to Uniwax, an expert wax factory in the Ivory Coast, and the intricate hand-made print technique that forms the patterns. “It’s about celebrating the diversity of old African cultures. But it’s not an African collection. It’s about the connection between different cultures and promoting African savoir-faire,” Grosfilley said. “It’s different to what has been done before because usually designers like the idea of what ‘looks African’ while they don’t provide work and do something which is really African. Maria Grazia’s point of view was to promote one hundred per cent, African-made textile but not to make ‘an African style’. This collection can be worn by anyone because it’s about the connection between all the continents in the world.”  

在教育自己非洲大陆的蜡织物时，Maria Grazia Chiuri与法国人类学家Anne Grosfilley合作，他在整个系列的创作过程中担任指导。Grosfilley将Chiuri引入了象牙海岸的专业蜡工厂Uniwax，以及形成图案的错综复杂的手工印刷技术。“这是为了庆祝古老的非洲文化的多样性。但它不是非洲的收藏品。这是关于不同文化之间的联系和促进非洲的技巧，“格罗斯菲利说。“这与之前所做的不同，因为通常设计师喜欢'看起来非洲'的想法，而他们不提供工作，做一些真正非洲的事情。Maria Grazia的观点是提升百分之百，非洲制造的纺织品，但不是为了'非洲风格'。这个系列可以被任何人佩戴，因为它是关于世界上所有大陆之间的联系。“

Describing her collection as “a world map”, Maria Grazia Chiuri invited a number of specialists to collaborate on her show. Focusing on wax fabric - “the fabric of a cultural melting pot” - she worked with Grosfilley and Uniwax on weaving the codes of Dior into toiles de jouy, landscapes and tarot motifs realised in new interpretations. Meanwhile British-Jamaican designer Grace Wales Bonner and African-American artist Mickalene Thomas reimagined Dior’s Classic Bar jacket and New Look skirt; the South African shirt-maker Pathé’O designed a chemise for the collection in tribute to Nelson Mandela; and Dior’s regular milliner Stephen Jones collaborated with fellow hatters Martine Henry and Daniella Osemadewa on turbans and pan-African headpieces. Finally, Chiuri collaborated with Moroccan craftswomen Sumano on the show’s scenography, where traditional local pottery and textiles made up the set decor. 

Maria Grazia Chiuri将她的收藏描述为“世界地图”，邀请了一些专家在她的节目上进行合作。专注于蜡质面料 - “文化大熔炉的面料” - 她与Grosfilley和Uniwax合作，将Dior的代码编织成toiles de jouy，以新的诠释实现的风景和塔罗牌图案。与此同时，英国牙买加设计师Grace Wales Bonner和非洲裔美国艺术家Mickalene Thomas重新设计了Dior经典酒吧夹克和New Look裙子; 这位南非衬衫制造商Pathé'O为该系列设计了一件衬衫，向Nelson Mandela致敬; 迪奥的常规制帽师斯蒂芬琼斯与其他帽子马丁·亨利和丹尼拉·奥塞马德瓦合作拍摄了头巾和泛非头饰。最后，Chiuri与摩洛哥女工Sumano合作展出了舞台布，

by GETTY IMAGES  

In 1951, Christian Dior created the ‘Maroc’, a white tulle dress and coat with silver embroidery inspired by the cooling white colours of the city (which reached 36 degrees Celsius on Monday afternoon). Under the cross-cultural eye of John Galliano, who served at the house between 1997 and 2011, Moroccan influences continuously found their way into the house’s collections. But no designer is more synonymous with Marrakech than the Algerian-born Yves Saint Laurent, who became Dior’s assistant in 1955 and took the reins at the house when his mentor died two years later. On the afternoon of her show, Maria Grazia Chiuri took her guests to visit Saint Laurent’s Art Deco villa where the ivory ‘Marrakech’ coat he designed for Dior in 1960 was on display. Before the show, she described Marrakech as a cultural meeting point between the European and African continents: the perfect stage for the message she wanted to convey. 

1951年，克里斯汀·迪奥（Christian Dior）创作了“Maroc”，一件白色薄纱连衣裙和银色刺绣外套，灵感来自城市的冷白色（周一下午达到36摄氏度）。在约翰加利亚诺的跨文化视角下，他在1997年至2011年期间在这所房子里服务，摩洛哥的影响不断进入房子的收藏。但是，没有设计师更像是马拉喀什的代名词，而不是出生于阿尔及利亚的Yves Saint Laurent，他于1955年成为Dior的助手，并在他的导师两年后去世时担任缰绳。在她的节目的下午，Maria Grazia Chiuri带她的客人参观Saint Laurent的装饰艺术别墅，在那里他展出了他为Dior设计的象牙色“马拉喀什”外套，演出前

秀场服饰

你们想看到的秀场服饰

看这里

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/christian-dior  

中国到场的受邀明星是 王子文

（以一袭黑色高领针织衫搭配红色系几何线条拼接长裙，亮相DIOR迪奥二零二零早春成衣秀。本次大秀在摩洛哥马拉喀什举办，王子文凭借自身敏锐的时尚嗅觉，经典演绎复古民族风，与大秀主题相得益彰。）

（谁让你看裙子了，看灯！）

图片与文字来自网络及品牌公开信息，出处见水印及提示