LOEWE SS27 巴黎

LOEWE（罗意威）｜LOEWE 2027 春夏系列时装秀（巴黎女装周日程）｜2026-10-02｜巴黎

LOEWE 这一季先在户外立了一个白盒子。它落在巴黎一处庭院的草坪上，纯白的立方体，背后是古典宫殿的立面和哥特教堂的尖顶，草地、树、石板路都还在。

走进盒子，等于从白天走进另一种光。里面是一个椭圆形的大厅，全部刷白：两层环廊沿墙走一圈，白色金属栏杆，天花嵌着几道线性灯带，地面铺浅灰地毯。

制作由 lamodeenimages 承接。这种空间的做法是把细节抹平：没有标志，没有品牌色，没有装饰面。它更像美术馆的展厅，或者放空了水的泳池。

观众席不是一排排椅子，而是白色模块坐垫，摆在大厅中央，断成几道同心弧，中间留出走道。人坐得很低，视线接近地面，模特从身边经过时，看到的是裤脚和鞋。

Jack McCollough 与 Lazaro Hernandez 接手 LOEWE 后，一直在处理同一道题：这个以皮革工艺起家的西班牙品牌，怎样容得下美式极简的干净。这一季偏向后者，但保留了大量手工痕迹。

打结的领巾式领口反复出现，布条绕过脖子再系住，代替衬衫领；高开衩的蓬松短裤用抽绳收口，配长袜与乐福鞋；印花连衣裙配红色高跟鞋，裙上的图案像被水泡过的花。

皮件仍是主角。黑色皮夹克裁得短，肩线略宽，拉链从领口一直走到下摆；手袋上挂着金属钥匙扣与皮质挂饰，是这一季最容易被认出的物件。

LOEWE 1846 年在马德里以皮革工坊起家，二十世纪归入 LVMH，2013 年起由 Jonathan Anderson 带到时装话题的中心。McCollough 与 Hernandez 的接任，意味着品牌从概念转向剪裁与日常。

传播上，这个项目的素材分成两组：户外白盒子与草坪，拍的是「到达」；大厅里的走秀，拍的是「进入」。前者适合做封面，后者适合做内页。

活动内容与传播的关系很直接：白盒子本身就是一个可拍照的地标，来宾在进场前已经完成一次传播；走秀的照片再补上衣服的细节。秀散场，盒子在草地上站了几天。

Loewe began outside, with a white box. It stood on the lawn of a Paris courtyard — a pure white cube with a classical palace façade and the spire of a Gothic church behind it, the grass and trees and paving left exactly as they were.

Walking into the box meant walking out of daylight into a different light. Inside was an oval hall painted entirely white: two tiers of gallery running around the wall, white metal railings, linear light strips set into the ceiling, pale grey carpet underfoot.

Production was by lamodeenimages. The method with a room like this is to sand every detail flat — no logos, no brand colour, no decorative surface. It read more like a museum gallery, or a swimming pool with the water drained out. The whiteness was not sterile in person: the carpet took footprints, the painted walls showed the seams between panels, and the upper ring was open scaffolding behind thin white mesh, so the construction stayed visible.

Seating was not rows of chairs but white modular cushions set in broken concentric arcs, with aisles left between them. Guests sat very low, close to the floor, so that when a model passed they saw hems and shoes rather than a full silhouette. That low angle shaped the show: the audience looked slightly up at each model, which made even a flat shoe read as deliberate.

Since taking over Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have been working the same question: how a Spanish house built on leather craft makes room for American minimalism. This season leaned toward the second, but kept a great deal of visible handwork.

A knotted scarf collar appeared again and again, a strip of cloth looped and tied at the throat instead of a shirt collar. Puffed shorts were cut high and closed with a drawstring, worn with long socks and loafers; a printed dress came with red heels and a pattern that looked like flowers left in water.

Fabrics were mostly matte — cotton poplin, fine wool, a washed silk — with very little shine, which is why the red shoes and the metal charms registered so strongly against them. Colour stayed close to what the fibre already was: bone, sand, olive, the occasional navy.

Leather was still the lead. A black jacket cut short with a slightly wide shoulder and a zip running from collar to hem; bags hung with metal keyrings and leather charms, the most recognisable objects in the collection.

Loewe started in Madrid in 1846 as a leather workshop, joined LVMH in the twentieth century, and was pulled to the centre of the fashion conversation by Jonathan Anderson from 2013. The arrival of McCollough and Hernandez signals a move from concept toward cut and daily wear.

For communication the project produced two sets of images: the white box on the lawn, which is about arrival, and the show inside, which is about entry. The first works as a cover, the second as the body of the story.

The relationship between event and promotion is direct here. The box is a landmark people photograph before they reach their seats, so part of the publicity happens before the show begins; the runway pictures then supply the detail. For a case library it is a useful example of a set that doubles as a marketing object, because it can be photographed empty, which raises the number of usable images from a single build.

After the show the box stayed on the grass for a few more days.

Source: public information published by lamodeenimages.

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